WASHINGTON 鈥� It鈥檚 often battered, fried and served alongside 鈥渃hips,鈥� but in the 1990s, the fate of Atlantic cod was in serious trouble. Populations plummeted in waters near Maine and Canada, prompting , regulations and other recovery efforts.
Decades later, Atlantic cod is still 鈥渟ignificantly below target population levels,鈥� the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration 聽and in the U.S., the species is under a rebuilding plan.
Chef Kyle Bailey points to cod鈥檚 near collapse, as well as previously dwindling numbers of rockfish and bluefish, as a consequence from overfishing the oceans.
鈥淚t鈥檚 not like this could happen; we already did do that. And it took years for the fishery to come back. That鈥檚 why it鈥檚 so important to eat sustainable seafood,鈥� said Bailey, who runs in Southeast D.C.
Similar to organic and non-GMO, 鈥渟ustainable鈥� is a label that鈥檚 surfaced on bags of frozen flounder and displays of salmon at grocery stores around the country. But what does it mean?
Simply put, sustainable fishing practices leave enough fish in the ocean so that species are able to replenish their populations naturally. (A from the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations shows almost 30 percent of seafood populations are overfished.)
Brian Perkins, regional director for the Americas at the聽 (MSC), a nonprofit that sets the standard for sustainable seafood and works with independent third parties to certify sustainable fisheries, said sustainability is also about respecting marine habitats and 鈥渆nsuring that people who depend on fish maintain their livelihoods.鈥�
鈥淚t鈥檚 really a matter of the fishers choosing to do the right thing at the right time and make sure that they鈥檙e leaving enough fish in the sea for the next generation,鈥� Perkins added.
The MSC鈥檚 is one way consumers can identify sustainable seafood. It indicates a wild-caught product that comes from fisheries who adhere to best practices and allows consumers to trace the fish back to the source. Most recent data show 361 fisheries around the world were certified sustainable by MSC standards, and Perkins said in the U.S., 60 to 70 percent of fisheries are certified by the MSC.
Bailey said purchasing seafood from a fisherman you know and trust is another way to ensure seafood is sustainable. In 2017, Bailey joined the program , which he explained works similar to a CSA (community supported agriculture model) for restaurants. Chefs pay a subscription fee to the fishermen and receive a 鈥渕ixed bag鈥� of seafood, based on what鈥檚 available at the time.
鈥淏ecause seafood does have seasons,鈥� Bailey said.
Sourcing seafood directly from the dock helps cut down on labeling fraud, Bailey said, since all of the middle steps in the supply chain are cut out. It also helps to support the local economy and ensure nearby waters don鈥檛 see the indirect effects of overfishing.
鈥淭he impact on the ecosystem is huge. It鈥檚 not just, 鈥極h, we don鈥檛 get to eat this anymore.鈥� Think about all the other things that affect that,鈥� Bailey said.
鈥淚 think that鈥檚 why there are crazy algae blooms in the sea of Japan now and there are a ton of jellyfish out of nowhere and nobody knows why. It鈥檚 probably overfishing, man. There are ripples all throughout the entire process.鈥�
Since opening The Salt Line in 2017, Bailey said he has seen an increase in demand from diners for products sourced with responsible practices in mind. Perkins said he has also seen an uptick in interest, citing a recent that found more than 80 percent of global seafood consumers agree seafood needs to be protected for future generations
In addition to labels, consumers can use apps to check in on best practices of seafood products. Bailey recommends , from the Monterey Bay Aquarium, which provides up-to-date recommendations and locates stores and markets that serve sustainable seafood.
Bailey said some consumers in search of sustainable seafood may get sticker shock, but warned if the price seems too good to be true, it could be due to overfishing and/or聽.
鈥淎 huge hurdle that customers are going to have to overcome is, they鈥檙e going to ask: 鈥榃hy is this local, sustainable stuff so expensive?鈥欌�� Bailey said.
鈥淎nd the (question) isn鈥檛 why it鈥檚 so expensive. It鈥檚 why is the other stuff so cheap?鈥�
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Interested in trying some sustainable seafood? Park Hyatt Washington, D.C. will host a Fall 2018 Park Hyatt Masters of Food & Wine, featuring an evening of sustainable seafood with Marine Stewardship Council in celebration of wild American seafood on Sept. 30. Tickets and information are available on .
